2012-07-19 Dining Room Door Header
The other projects I mentioned,
such as space over the top cabinets and removing the pantry, are for
other web pages. This page only deals with replacing the door
header. It can be seen in this photo taken from behind the pantry
which is on the right side of this photo with just the studs of one
wall showing. The rest of this photo is all of the dining room
wall facing the kitchen. See the blue taped wires on the left of
the opening? That's the door bell removed.
the same wall from inside the dining room facing the kitchen. The
paneling hasn't been completely removed from over the doorway. I
tried to save as much of this as possible. You can still see the
old doorway on the left in this photo. Notice that I've already
moved the switch. It is now to the right of where the new doorway
will come. I had no choice but to mount it a little high.
than feed it from where I thought it would run, the electrician decided
to feed this switch from a far corner. I tried to save the dining
room panel and just mount a renovation switch box. Couldn't do
it. I cut the hole where it should have gone but the wire
wouldn't stretch. Bummer. I had to remove the panel, mount
a standard switch box 6 inches too high, and feed the wire into it like
a prewire job. That's one more panel I couldn't save. But
the switch works fine.
Here's a closeup of the switch in it's new location. The other wires are for outlets near the baseboard.
Thanks to them, I was able to feed through an existing hole in the top plate for the new switch location.
can't just snatch out an old door header. They're doubled 2 X 6s
for a reason. A header in a brick wall supports the masonry laid
over a doorway. A header in a frame wall supports the structure
above it as well -- in this case, the roof. This is a support
wall! I had to build a helper wall, a temporary support wall
before removing the door header.
It's pretty simple, really.
I just placed a 2" X 4" stud on the floor (the bottom plate), had
Linda hold a stud to the right of the new doorway while I held one to
the left of it. Then we wedged them in place with a hammer under
the horizontal stud on the ceiling (the top plate). After these
and the other 5 studs were in place (about one every 16 inches), I
tacked them in with 3 inch drywall screws to keep them from shifting
while I pounded out the old door header and studs. The view below
is from the dining room.
view is from the kitchen showing the old doorway about to be removed.
There's a gap between the old wall and the helper wall (or
support wall) of about 3 or 4 inches.
Same view, different angle. In this photo, the old header is still in place.
this photo, the old header has been removed. The old studs have
been removed. I doubled two, full-height studs on the left side
then added the third stud which is cut off for a header mount. I
was able to reuse lumber from the old wall.
Here's the new header in place. I'll explain the triple studs on the left in a moment.
the small blocks over the header. These transfer weight from the
top plate which holds the full weight of the central beam supporting
the roof. This view is from the kitchen.
photo was taken from the dining room. All that remains is to
replace the paneled walls and patch and redo the floor. More on
that in the next photo.
the bottom plate removed, the subfloor is exposed. There's a gap
where the 5/8" plywood floor (the part beneath the floor covering) is
missing. I'll have to cut a piece to replace this.
wish I had had time to photograph this before I put the 2" X 4" block
in place. In the center of this photo you can see the splice in
the top plate. That's why the top plate is doubled. But
when the studs and door header were removed, it seemed to me there was
still too much stress on this splice. So I reinforced it by
driving three 3" drywall screws into the plate on either side of the
joint. Then I tripled the support studs at the door facing
opposite this splice.
couldn't resist taking this picture. It's showing the ceiling
where the helper wall was after it's been removed. It impressed
me that driving a helper wall in place the way I did caused no damage
whatever to the ceiling. I was grateful.
~ Hit your browser's BACK button and go to the next page. ~